
So,
It's been a while since I've sat down to post notes on anything, and in the meanwhile, I've done a good bit of sipping. Here are my thoughts on a number of bottles consumed last year...
GRAHAM'S VINTAGE 1977
A clear, mature burgundy/maroon - relatively dark compared to the other 77's that I've sampled. The nose is lovely, giving lush aromas of black raspberry jam and smokey exotic spices with hints of vanilla bean.
The palate is beautifully smooth with waves of spicy, plummy fruit and that streak of licorice that seems to be characteristic of Graham's style. The tannins are silky and the finish goes on and on.
Overall, a beauty of a port - it has that powerful decadent quality that you would expect from Graham's, but with the refined elegance of thirty years of age. This one definitely lived up to the billing of this classic vintage and has a long life left.
-Tasted May 07
DOW'S VINTAGE 1994
Showing a moderate amount of maturity in it's color at this point, being a vibrant garnet/purple with a slightly rusty hue around the rim. The nose is beautiful, bursting with black raspberry, blueberry, cocoa, and figs.
The palate initially packs a wallop of ripe dark berry fruit and then reveals a subtler layer of earthy dark chocolate notes that flow smoothly into an exceptionally long finish with notes of spices - licorice, cardomom and black tea come to mind. The tannins are smooth at this point but firm and very approachable.
Though it is quite obvious that this is a port that will continue to flesh out and develop for a long time to come, I certainly don't regret having cracked it at this stage - it's simply delicious - balanced, complex, and with that refined dryness unique to Dow's. It was one of those ports that I was already missing before it was gone, and another piece of proof to me that the 94's are definitely deserving of the praise they've received.
-Tasted late 07
FONSECA, QUINTA DO PANASCAL VINTAGE 2001
Vibrant royal purple in color going ruby around the edge. The first night that i opened the bottle the nose was a bit hesitant, though there was definitely some ripe dark fruit present, as well as a hint of a floral note. The following day it opened up wonderfully, giving damp earth, raspberry preserves, truffles, flowers and mineral notes.
The palate also opened up on the second day showing loads of ripe black fruit followed by a wave of black pepper, which was very prominent on the first night, but integrated nicely on day two. The structure is solid but not huge, with silky tannins and balanced acidity.
This isn't the blockbuster type, this wine has a sensual and exotic style, enticing the senses similar to the way that a fine burgundy does. I found it impressively complex for a wine from a single Quinta. Probably not a bottle to store for the long haul, though it definitely has aging potential - and coming in at half the price of the 97, 00, or 03 Fonseca vintages, this is a great option for drinking on the younger side.
-Tasted Jan 08
A COUPLE OF UN-NOTED BOTTLES:
WARRE'S VINTAGE 2000
I drank this bottle in late 07 and didn't write notes on it. However, to summarize my impression, I enjoyed it very much. It reminded me very much of the Warre's 94, with that same very smooth and full palate of velvety, slightly raisin and prune laced dark fruits backed up with black pepper and licorice notes, though not as evolved as the 94 at this stage of course. Well structured and balanced. I would love to have this port again a bit further down the line when it has fleshed out some more, but it was pretty approachable and very delicious to drink now.
FONSECA, GUIMARAENS VINTAGE 1991I drank this one in late 07 as well, around Thanksgiving I believe, with Harrington Chesterfield. This was my second time sampling this vintage of this Fonseca single quinta port, the first time being 5 or 6 years prior. I can't say I was overly impressed this time around. I remember it being a big fat fruit bomb the first time around - dark color and lots of big dark fruit. This time, though it's still a dark purple color and packs a good deal of jammy fruit on the palate, the alcohol seems to be showing through the fruit a bit. I did enjoy it for sure, but it just didn't have that structure and balance of a great port that makes you want to keep on sipping it. One to drink now.
1 comment:
Crazy list of tastings. Graham's 1977 - what a bottle. Glad I got another in the cellar. Cheers! Bill
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