Ah, yes, tis the season as they say. And this season just happens to be port season. The EPTT is at it again. This winter I would like to announce the arrival of a new member to the Exclusive Port Tasting Team, Lillian Petherbridge of Brooklyn, New York, who's sudden and enthusiastic embrace of port enjoyment has been matched by nobody I've yet had the pleasure to meet. The following is a case in point. After several bouts of port researching, port discussing, and port strategizing, Lillian convinced me that we should conduct the first mini-horizontal tasting in the history of the EPTT. We opted to pit a couple of 1977 vintages against each other and see how they fared. An excellent idea Lillian! I was very impressed. (Needless to say this sealed her EPTT membership). The wines were opened and decanted a short time before sipping the first glass, and fortunately neither needed that much time to open up. The Croft was noticeably lighter and more delicate and the Warre's deeper and more lush. Both were well enjoyed for certain, but the Warre's obviously outclassed the Croft by a notch or two. The Croft is a good deal for a 77 and a good deal for someone who wants a fully aged vintage to drink now. The Warre's is a bit more expensive, though the hike in price is warranted by it's quality, and it could definitely sit in the cellar well into the future, though it's drinking wonderfully at the moment. This was a great little tasting and I hope to be reporting on further vintages before the season is out! Cheers!
CROFT VINTAGE 1977
Tasted 1/28/07
Fairly mature light purple changing to a rusty maroon on the rim. the nose is of light candied fruit, a touch of caramel, and actually grape ring-pops come to mind, but not in a bad way, and there is a prominent note of spirits. I was afraid that the heat on the nose might portend a hot and unbalanced palate, but in fact it was quite pleasant - fully mature light berry fruit, raisins, with a bit of tar and black pepper. The finish is clean and delicate although only short to moderate in length. I would have to think that this wine is at it's peak now, but won't last a lot longer. It reminds me quite a bit of the 85 Croft, which Billingsly and I have enjoyed on a couple of occasions in the past, though of the two, the 85 is the more complex and intriguing. Regardless of that, this was still a very tasty old port, and for a good wine at this stage of maturity, a good deal.
WARRE'S VINTAGE 1977
Tasted 1/28/07
Still a fairly rich burgundy in color with a full nose of warm plums, figs, and chocolate covered cherries with a touch of spice (doesn't really come off as a 30+ year old wine!). The palate shows beautiful balance and great concentration - it's lush with raspberry and blackberry jam, vanilla, anise, and tar. Lots of finesse and an almost creamy texture make this an outstanding port. It reminds me very much of the excellent 94 Warre's, but with that extra level of sophistication due it's age, and I would have to give the 77 the edge in richness and power - but both are great. This port probably has a long life ahead of it still - for those who want to catch a well-matured vintage while it still has a bit of fat on it - drink now. If you prefer a further fleshed out, more delicate stage of maturity, just keep waiting. Personally, if I had more of it, I would probably have a glass in my hand right now! Drink up!
-L.H.
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