Welcoming a new member

I would like to extend my warmest welcomes to the newest member of the EPTT, Lillian Petherbridge. Her embrace of port is unmatched, and in less than six months she has tasted vintages that took Lamont and I three years to taste. The EPTT was founded on a friendship and built upon the philosophy that cellared vintage port will be popped at special times during our lives. A port in the cellar increases not only in monetary value, but also in sentimental value. The 1985 Graham's tasted by the EPTT in December 2006 was worth more to us than the retail value because Lamont had cellared the wine for 10 years. Great ports are more than just great wines, they are celebrations of great occasions, how very large or small those may be. Thus, I welcome you, Lillian, to the EPTT and hope your tastings and collection continue to grow.
Best Regards,
Bill Livingston, PhD

Winter tastings continue in the Big Apple...

Ah, yes, tis the season as they say. And this season just happens to be port season. The EPTT is at it again. This winter I would like to announce the arrival of a new member to the Exclusive Port Tasting Team, Lillian Petherbridge of Brooklyn, New York, who's sudden and enthusiastic embrace of port enjoyment has been matched by nobody I've yet had the pleasure to meet. The following is a case in point. After several bouts of port researching, port discussing, and port strategizing, Lillian convinced me that we should conduct the first mini-horizontal tasting in the history of the EPTT. We opted to pit a couple of 1977 vintages against each other and see how they fared. An excellent idea Lillian! I was very impressed. (Needless to say this sealed her EPTT membership). The wines were opened and decanted a short time before sipping the first glass, and fortunately neither needed that much time to open up. The Croft was noticeably lighter and more delicate and the Warre's deeper and more lush. Both were well enjoyed for certain, but the Warre's obviously outclassed the Croft by a notch or two. The Croft is a good deal for a 77 and a good deal for someone who wants a fully aged vintage to drink now. The Warre's is a bit more expensive, though the hike in price is warranted by it's quality, and it could definitely sit in the cellar well into the future, though it's drinking wonderfully at the moment. This was a great little tasting and I hope to be reporting on further vintages before the season is out! Cheers!



CROFT VINTAGE 1977
Tasted 1/28/07
Fairly mature light purple changing to a rusty maroon on the rim. the nose is of light candied fruit, a touch of caramel, and actually grape ring-pops come to mind, but not in a bad way, and there is a prominent note of spirits. I was afraid that the heat on the nose might portend a hot and unbalanced palate, but in fact it was quite pleasant - fully mature light berry fruit, raisins, with a bit of tar and black pepper. The finish is clean and delicate although only short to moderate in length. I would have to think that this wine is at it's peak now, but won't last a lot longer. It reminds me quite a bit of the 85 Croft, which Billingsly and I have enjoyed on a couple of occasions in the past, though of the two, the 85 is the more complex and intriguing. Regardless of that, this was still a very tasty old port, and for a good wine at this stage of maturity, a good deal.

WARRE'S VINTAGE 1977
Tasted 1/28/07
Still a fairly rich burgundy in color with a full nose of warm plums, figs, and chocolate covered cherries with a touch of spice (doesn't really come off as a 30+ year old wine!). The palate shows beautiful balance and great concentration - it's lush with raspberry and blackberry jam, vanilla, anise, and tar. Lots of finesse and an almost creamy texture make this an outstanding port. It reminds me very much of the excellent 94 Warre's, but with that extra level of sophistication due it's age, and I would have to give the 77 the edge in richness and power - but both are great. This port probably has a long life ahead of it still - for those who want to catch a well-matured vintage while it still has a bit of fat on it - drink now. If you prefer a further fleshed out, more delicate stage of maturity, just keep waiting. Personally, if I had more of it, I would probably have a glass in my hand right now! Drink up!





-L.H.

Some recent notes from Lamont...

I recently had the privilege of tasting two excellent vintage ports - both through the generous patronage of one Ms. Lillian Petherbridge (EPTT membership pending). My notes were as follows:

TAYLOR FLADGATE VINTAGE 1980
Tasted 1/21/07
Dark maroon in color, almost still purple, with a touch of brick red around the edge. On the nose it's heady and deep showing brambly black raspberry, cherry, prune, and fig, with a touch of warm leather. Smooth and quite sweet on the palate, with a luscious core of ripe black mission fig, licorice, and exotic spice. The tannins have matured to a silky texture and the finish is nice and long. It may not quite be a classic port, but this is still an excellent vintage from a great producer that should continue to get even better for a while to come. Highly recommended. This was found at a steal of a price - $68!

QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE 1970
Tasted: 1/5/07
A beautifully mature brick red in color with a ruddy pink rim. The nose is wonderfully expressive offering more with each whiff - dried berries, cherries, caramel, prunes, leather, milk chocolate, cinnamon, a touch of rose petals - it really pours out of the glass. Just as delicious on the palate showing a bit more youth even than the nose implies - black raspberries, gingerbread and licorice. This wine has voluptuous tannins and a long, long finish. Still has power left but shows great maturity and elegance. I'm sure it has plenty of life left, however there is certainly no reason not to pop this bottle now. Excellent.

- L.H.

1985 Graham's Vintage, 1991 Dow's Vintage

The reviews of these two wines are posted on the revised EPTT website.

http://oregonstate.edu/~kosciuck/reviews.htm

Here is a summary: Graham's = excellent, Dow's = very good.

It's nice to know that we have Graham's 1985 vintage and Graham's 1977 vintage in the cellar.

Warre's Optima 10 year tawny

Reddish-orange in color. A full fruity nose of dates and apricots with a hint of nuts. Concentrated fruit on the palate, not very sweet. Medium length finish ends with notes of vanilla. A good 10 year tawny, especially for those who like dark, fruity tawnys. Livingston, 12/31/06.