22 April 2010

Spring tasting in Portland

Had a few bottles with Lamont, Harrington, and Elaine

Kopke 20 year tawny
Reddish brown in color. Open nose of caramel, dough, and orange peel, and dried fruits. Well concentrated on the palate, full dried fruits, caramel, and mild nuttiness. Long finish defines the wine. Excellent 20 year tawny - 94 points

Krohn 1964 white colheita
Translucent orange in color. Dried papaya and toffee on the nose with hints of buttered pecan. Very sweet after a shot chill, not hot at all, candied fruit, vanilla, and baking spices on the palate. Finish is long and satisfying.

Graham's 1963 Vintage

Light purple/red and crisp in color with bright rim. Ripe strawberry and raspberry jam on the nose, sweet and open with some spirit. Full open lush red fruit on the palate with soft tannins. A touch of leather and brandied cherries complete the flavor profile; finish is long and fruity. Excellent wine, drinking very well now.

01 January 2010

Kopke Colheita Flight


Elaine and I had a nice flight of Kopke Colheitas on New Years Eve at Wine Down in Portland, OR (http://www.winedownpdx.com/joomla/). We tasted 1957, 1967, 1977, 1987, and 1997. I did not have large portions of each and did not have paper, so each wine was not noted in detail, but I did note the progression of taste among years.

1997 was the lightest in color, a light burnt orange and had the most acidity making the wine slightly dry. The taste was with vibrant with dried fruits, and a bit a vanilla. Finish was moderately long.
1987 had a bit more depth in color then 1997. Slightly less tannic, the concentration was deeper but still crisp with a more nutty flavor. Finish was moderately long. Similar to a good 20 year tawny.
1977 was similar in color to 1987 but was more concentrated. The acidity was reduced compared to the 1997 and the finish was longer.
1967 was noticeably different from the three previous wines. The color was reddish orange and showed more depth. The nose was more concentrated and smelled of dried apricots, dates, and raisins. The plate was markedly different with deep concentrated apricots, dates, raisins, wood, peel, and a touch of vanilla. The finish was very long and fruity.
1957 was overall similar to 1967. However, the palate was a bit deeper and the fruit flavor was outstanding with notes of toffee. The flavor was complex and the fruit finish was long and memorable. The best tawny I have ever tasted - and my oldest for that matter.

Graham's 1985 Vintage

Tasted Christmas night. It seems we had Graham's 1985 on Christmas 2006 and I have posted my 2006 review for comparison. In summary, this wine is drinking well now and I plan to put a few in the cellar for years to come.

A clear red-violet in color. Nose was alive with ripe red fruits and that jammy sense of an aged wine. Mature on the palate; tannis have softened and the concentrated fruit quality really stands out. The finish is long and fruity, almost earth as this wine is beginning to show some tawny characteristics. Actually reminded me of a Taylor 10 year tawny. Based on my previous review, there has been some improvement as the wine is outstanding, even to those who do not drink port often. Livingston 12/25/09


My review from Christmas 2006 -
A crisp reddish purple in color. A full and open nose of red fruits, accented by strawberry jam and a bit of must. The wine shows its maturity on the palate with soft tannins and refined structure. The palate is deep, and the red fruits are well concentrated and fully fleshed out. A supurb finish compliments the maturity of this wine. Excellent now, but may stand 5 to 10 years to reach its peak. Livingston, 12/25/06

1997 Dow's Vintage

Tasted over Thanksgiving. Not always the easiest environment to review a wine, but here is my general impression.

Dark purple – showing little age. Inviting nose of blackberry, black cherry and tar. On the palate it is deep and complex, with notes of dark berries, black cherries, and a slight hint of raspberry. Tannins are solid and the finish is long. This has the backbone to last decades and should be an outstanding wine for years to come. Livingston 11/09

01 February 2009

Two more in 2009

Hopefully these won't be my only notes of 2009.

1977 Warre's Vintage
Translucent purple in color with a touch of rose. Sweet and full on the nose with notes of strawberry and vanilla most prominent. Soft and smooth on the plate with ripe red fruts and a touch of plum with undertones of vanilla. Mature tannins and a long smooth finish. Jammy and rich, yet showing its age. Drinking exceptionally well now.
Tasted 1/09

1994 Quinta de Ventozelo traditional 1999 LBV
This bottle was brought back form Portugal by a coworker and this is my first experience with the house. Still purple, but showing some age with a hint of tawny to the color. Mostly plummy on the palate with notes of dates and nuts. Finish is balanced and raisny with good concentration. A nice port from a year that was not outstanding. Interstingly, it comes across more tawny than I would have expected.
Tasted 1/09

31 January 2009

The first 09 update

Again, it's been another long hiatus. Here are some notes on bottles drunk over the past few months:

TAYLOR QUINTA DA VARGELLAS 1995 VINTAGE

Still a dark burgundy color but a good deal lighter than the deep blackish purple I remember from when I first had this port many years ago. The nose has an overall spicey/smokey character with dark notes of plum, blueberry jam and eucalyptus. The spicey/smokey character comes through on the palate as well showing moderate body with flavors of black cherry and currant as well as eucalyptus notes coming through again as well. The finish is of medium length. Perhaps a shorter term wine than I would have thought when it was younger. Not a great Taylor, but pretty good stuff. 87pts, Tasted 11/08

FONSECA QUINTA DO PANASCAL 2005 VINTAGE

Still just a baby of course - inky purple with a thin, vibrant rim. Sweet on the nose with very fragrant notes of blueberry and strawberry - floral and lovely. Shows big, dark, sweet berry fruit on the palate with a solid tannic backbone and fairly long smooth finish. Should be a very nice medium term single quinta. 92pts, Tasted 12/08

QUINTA DO CRASTO 1994 VINTAGE

Eggplant purple with a dark purple/red rim - looks quite young still. A big, powerful nose showing rich aromas of blackberry and lots of black pepper with a hint of dark chocolate. The palate unloads a mass of fresh blackberry fruit, very pure and focused, giving way to spicy black pepper that carries through the medium long finish. The tannins are firm but polished. This one scores high for it's big balanced structure and delicious straigtforward fruit and should continue getting better for a long time to come. 92pts, Tasted 12/08

QUINTA DO VESUVIO 2000 VINTAGE

Pleasant but rather reserved on the nose at this stage - mild dark fruit with a bit of chocolate coming through. Medium bodied palate with cherry and blueberry flavors, though as on the nose it's a bit one dimensional. There is good balance here and a solid structure to the wine, but perhaps it needs some time before it starts to show its stuff. At this stage it's an enjoyable port but unexciting. 87pts, Tasted 12/08



Cheers,

Lamont

05 May 2008

Reeewiiiiiiiind...

So, now that several weeks have gone by without the posting of any new tasting notes, I'm sure you're wondering what the hell is going on. Well, I discovered the forum boards on fortheloveofport.com and starting posting my notes on there. In the meantime I've neglected my duties on JS so, here we go. Six bottles of port have hit the deck since my last post, so here in chronological order, and without further ado...

Dow's Quinta do Bonfim 1995
A rather flat purple hue with a wide burgundy rim showing a brownish tinge. The nose has a slightly baked and meaty character to it and displays notes of prune, cherry, dried blueberries, and some noticable spirit. Pleasant dark berry fruit on the palate, moderately sweet, and showing just a dash of that cocoa character that I always seem to notice in Dow's vintages. The mid-palate takes on a spicy/spirity edge and drops off into a rather short finish, leaving me a bit disappointed. An enjoyable port, especially considering the affordable price, but doesn't stack up to the to the level of excellence that I'm accustomed to from Dow's. I would drink this one in the near term. Tasted 4/23, 85pts

Quinta de la Rosa Vintage 2000
Just popped this last night and enjoyed it very much...Blackish purple at the core with a purplish burgundy rim - very young looking. It took a good 4 to 5 hours for the nose to come around. When it did it offered a sweet smelling bouquet of raspberry, black mission fig, dark chocolate, and a whiff of roses. The palate shows cherry/blackberry fruit that is concentrated, sweet, and very chocolatey, with a peppery spiciness that hits you right up front and continues through the well balanced, medium length finish. There's a mouthwatering quality to the acidity and the tannins are firm but softly textured. Scrumptious and quite well balanced. Probably a good one to age for the medium-term. I sipped this again today after 24 hours of decanting with consistent notes, though its grip had mellowed out somewhat. Tasted 4/08, 91pts

Churchill's Crusted Porto (Bottled 2002)
I've always been curious to try a crusted port. If memory serves me correctly, this is only the second or third one that I've come across in my years of perusing wine shops in the NY/NJ area (I'm pretty sure I remember seeing a Dow's crusted port - does that sound right? Come to think of it, does anyone know exactly which houses produce this style of port? (I'm guessing it's a limited number)). I just picked this one up today at a local shop here in Brooklyn and decanted it about three and a half hours ago.

The bottle states: "Churchill's Crusted Port is a blend of the very best Ports from two different years*. Matured for 2 years in sesoned oak casks, it is then bottled and laid down to age in our cellars for at least 3 years before being released for sale."

*Interesting that they don't tell us which 2 years are in the bottle!

Here are my notes as I'm sipping...

A dark burgundy in color with a bright cherry candy colored rim; pretty. The nose is already quite open, dominated by sweet black raspberry fruit along with notes of grape skins, cherries, dried herbs, and a subtle roasted coffee bean/chocolate undertone. The palate has gained in weight with each glass, now solidly medium bodied, with smooth, sweet fruit up front, lots of raspberry again, taking on a slightly darker edge on the midpalate, a touch of spice, and showing a subtle chocolatey quality, again echoing the nose. There's good balance here and a respectably long finish, though the tannins are very tame, making it particularly easy to just keep on sipping. I'm enjoying this a great deal. It's not on the level of a serious VP, but probably as good as any LBV that I've had to date. At $25 I'd definitely call it a bargain. I'll follow up as the night progresses if there are any evolutions of note, and perhaps post my notes on my impressions tomorrow if it lasts that long (read: chances of that are nil).

Coming down towards the end of the bottle now with over 7 hours of decanting. This port continued to darken in character, now taking on some blackberry and licorice notes on the nose and showing a darker edge to the palate also. The tannins have also begun to emerge, showing a slightly more mouth-drying quality than they did earlier. Very nice stuff and maybe even a little more firmly structured than I thought at first... Tasted 4/08, 87/88pts

Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha 1987
I bought this bottle at a rather dubious shop over on 2nd Avenue in Midtown near where I work. I can't say that I'm all that comfortable buying port there as the place is a little dingy, they have all of their vintage ports (including some older bottles) standing up, and the staff doesn't offer anything in the way of assistance. I had just happened to pop in there one day on my lunch break and discovered that they actually have a very nice selection of vingtage port, some at good prices. I bought a couple of bottles there previously that showed very well, so I decided to give it another whirl, despite the shaky circumstances. I've had lots of Warre's VP's, but never a Cavadinha, so I was intrigued.

My girlfriend and I popped it last night when we got home from work. The cork looked clean, but as I pulled it out , it crumbled to bits - not the most auspicious of signs. We decanted it thruough an extra-thorough chunk of cheesecloth to ensure that no cork bits infiltrated the decanter. It seemed to work well as the port came through clean. We had a glass just after decanting, drank some more a few hours later, and finished it off about an hour ago, which was roughly 24 hours after decanting. Although it did open up noticibly between the initial glass and the following tasting, it was drinking consistenly tonight with how it showed last night, just a bit mellower. My notes were as follows:

Quite dark - purple/burgundy with a vague ruddiness evident on the rim. The nose is moderately expressive, if somewhat simple. I noted cherry fruit with a prominent prune character and a mild musty/earthiness that was not unpleasant. Prune and cherry fruit come through strongly again on the front of the palate, slightly stewed, though not overly so (perhaps due to poor temperature control while sitting on that shelf for who-knows-how-long?). The midpalate adds some licorice into the mix as well as a little spirit, but this integrated by the second day, and the tannins are soft and mellow. The finish is surprisingly long with lingering notes of brown sugar and bitters. Tasty stuff, nothing to complain about really, outside of the stewed edge that I mentioned, but not exceptional either. However, considering the very questionable provenance of the bottle, along with the poor cork, I have to wonder if a better stored example might show better. Going by the bottle I tasted, I'd guess this probably has another 10 years or so of good drinking left in it, maybe a little longer. Tasted 5/08, 85pts

Quinta de Ventozelo 10 Year Tawny
I found this bottle while I was up in Albany this weekend. Until just recently I had never even heard of this producer, and this is the first one of their ports that I've ever come across - a good enough reason as any to check it out...

The color is almost fully tawny with rusty orange highlights and just a touch of reddish-pink still evident under good light. The nose is very pleasant with warm notes of figs, vanilla, hazelnuts, and butterscotch. Medium Intensity and sweetness on the palate, showing good balance. Figs come through strongly again, with a hint of strawberry fruit as well, building to a dash of spiciness and finishing long and smooth with roasted nuts and brown sugar notes carrying on for a good 30 seconds. Pretty much has all of the qualities I would look for in a 10-year tawny - a very nice example of the style. Tasted 5/08, 88pts


Smith-Woodhouse Colheita 1986
Mostly tawny, but not completely, still showing a little bit of red in its burnt orange hue with a honey colored rim. The nose is generous and complex, the dominant character being something like cherry-vanilla and kola nuts with secondary notes of orange marmalade, sandalwood, apple pie, and spices. Quite rich and sweet on the palate, though not cloying at all, with a mildly viscous texture. I found the flavors redolent of caramelized walnuts, candied apples, a touch of raspberry fruit still way in the background, and a compliment of spicy cinnamon. A fresh acidity kicks in on the back end of the palate, cutting the sweetness and balancing everything out. The finish is smooth and very persistent with the wine still coating the mouth and the flavors still lingering long after swallowing. Delicious colheita – rich but well balanced - I would certainly recommend it if you can find it. Tasted 5/08, 93pts